Sunday, November 15, 2020

 

 My Maiden Visit to Banaras

-          Manprasad Subba

 

It was already dusk when Devkumar and I boarded the GL Express at Siliguri North Station. We were perspiring in the sweltering heat of early September. With virtually no experience of train-journey, we would have hardly been able to get into the bursting compartment of the train without the help of two red uniformed coolies, one pulling us from inside while the other pushing from behind. They charged us certain amount of money for this job. They had, we didn’t know how, managed to get for us the window-side seats facing each other. As the train, with a sudden jerk, started moving, Devkumar with a shriek abruptly took his hand off the window bar. What’s the matter? Someone from outside had attempted to snatch his wrist watch. Had we then had the knowledge of making reservation for berth in a Sleeper Coach, we would not have to be cramped in the general compartment with no space to lie down on.    

 

     ‘Express’ proved but a misnomer as it moved so sluggishly that it took nearly twenty hours to reach Chhapra where we had to disembark and get into a local train to Varanasi. It was past one in the afternoon when we took seats in a steam engine locomotive that fumed dark smoke full of coal-grit. Facing us were seated two young white-skinned European tourists. There were a few other passengers in that part of the compartment. The foreigners in front of us talked with each other in a language which we could not understand at all. One with somewhat unruly golden moustache glanced at me quite smilingly.  

 

     ‘Which country are you from?’ I initiated the conversation. They were from West Germany. (Two Germanys, partitioned after the World War II, were yet to be reunified. October 1990 when reunification took place was still 11 years away from the time we met in the train.) The other fellow did show little interest to get into conversation. It may be because of the language problem just as my friend also remained uncommunicative to them because of his inability to express himself in English. Norbert Ostendorf was the name of the one with the moustache who spoke English, although a little haltingly. Nor had I acquired the desired fluency. Yet, our conversation moved on and on until the train trundled into the Varanasi Cantt. Station. As we got down from the train, we shook our hands and hoped to meet again while in Varanasi. We had even exchanged our postal addresses during our chat in the train.    

 

     #

     Our mission to Banaras (Varanasi or Kashi) was to get printed a book of mine, a novella – my first ever book. And my boyhood friend Devkumar Pradhan had shown enthusiasm to be its publisher. It was the time when Banaras played quite a significant role in the printing business. Most of the Nepali books and periodicals had in their colophon the names of the press with different addresses in the city of Varanasi. Depending on a little bit of information about one Madhav Mudranalaya that was believed to have specialized in printing Nepali books, we took a rickshaw to the location called Baansfatak, Vishwanath Gali. It was already dark when we, meandering through the intriguing narrow gali flanked by the rows of brightly lit stalls of shops, discovered the right address somewhere deep behind the left flank of the gali. Through a gap at one point of the gali we were led into the interior part of a four-storied ancient building with a considerably broad square courtyard in the middle. Right from the gap at the gali we had to pass through a series of low-height doors, one after another, that at first left us quite perplexed. Those door-like gates were so low that even the persons of average Gorkha height like us had to lower the heads while passing through them. We were received by Prakash Dhawan, the eldest son of senior Dhawan, the proprietor of the Madhav Mudranalaya and were given a bed in a dungeon-like room on the ground floor.

 

     Prakash took the manuscript from me, flipped through the leaves filled with the rows of words written in my own neat hand. He, uttering some printer’s jargons, did not waste time in making a deal with us: In what shape do you want your book to be printed? Double crown? Double demy? And the letter size? 12 point, 14 point, 16 point? Your book will be of less than five ‘farma’.     

     Looking at him gawkily for a couple of seconds, I wanted him to explain what he meant by all those technical words. By showing me two books in different shapes, he made me understand the meaning of double crown and double demy. Likewise, he showed me different sizes of letters that had their names in different number. And I let him know my preference concerning the shape of the book and size of the letters. I showed him also the cover design I myself had prepared that showed two human figures in symbolic forms painted in black with the bold yellow background. On the top of the symbolic figures was the title of the book – Tyo Modsamma Pugeko Manchhe which may be loosely translated as The Man Who Has Reached That Bend. A long name for a short novel, eh!    

     “Cover design will go to the block maker,” he said.       

     “Will it be the same as it is?” I sounded a bit concerned.

     “Yes, it will be exactly the same. Even better. No need to worry.”

 

     And the main deal was struck: total cost, advance payment etc. And the conversation that followed was about the final delivery of the book.

     -How many days will it take to complete the book? We want to go back carrying at least a couple of dozen with us.  

     -The press is already hard-pressed with the previous orders. It may take a little longer than a fortnight.

     -We cannot stay that long. We came to you with the hope that we would be able to be back with the book in a week.

     -No, you need not stay that long. I will start your work from tomorrow itself. Once you are done with the final proof reading, you may leave. The whole lot of book will be sent by transport to be delivered at Darjeeling.

     But I was a bit too impatient to see my handwritten manuscript transformed into a book with all the elegance that a well produced book does have. We insisted that the book be delivered in a week and he assured us he would do everything possible.    .

 

       In the morning of the first day in Banaras we walked down to the Dasashwamedh Ghat and well before reaching the flight of sandstone steps that led down to the river, I was wonderstruck by the naked beauty of the river Ganges and the full view of the sandy undulating land on the other side that stretched endlessly towards dark green horizon. The whole view revealed itself so suddenly that I stood still in awe.  ‘Wow!’ was the only word that escaped from within me. That spellbinding scene still re-appears alive before my eyes whenever I think of the Ganges. As we leisurely descended the steps that ran horizontally all along the bank of the river, we were first greeted in English by some boatmen – ‘Hello sir, boat? Boating?’ Showing indifference to them, we walked down and along the long rows of steps. These steps of heavy sandstone blocks, joined with each other with iron clamps, are, in fact, also the formidable embankment that saves the riverside of the city from erosion. The steps rose from below the edge of the river up into the ascending alleys between multi-storied buildings that lined all along from one end of the city to the other end stretching several kilometers. While looking up from below, the flights of steps seemed to be branching up and eerily disappearing into mystical dark spaces between the soaring mansions. In between some long lines of steps there were broad spaces like terraces which were dotted with some tiny stalls of shops that sold tea, biscuits, pea-nuts, paan, cigarettes, soaps and the likes.

 

       At Dashashwamedh ghat, on a terrace two or three steps above from the edge of the river a few Hindu priests, their foreheads striped from one end to the other with white and brown sandalwood paste, were seated cross-legged in a row under their individual palm-leaf umbrella-sheds that rested slantingly on the bamboo poles. A few of them seemed busy with their priestly business while some were looking intently for their prospective customers around. While walking along the embankment Norbert and his friend, in Indian loose casual attire, were seen at a distance. Our eyes met, smiles flashed, we waved our hands to each other and they walked on to their own direction while we two took a boat. It was for the first time in life that we were sailing a boat. The boatman, in his past mid-twenties like us, helped us to get onto the boat and started rowing downstream telling us about the places close by: this is Manikarnika Ghat where funeral pyres never go out. And we turn our heads toward four-five burning pyres; and five or six bodies draped in yellow or white shrouds awaiting their turn lay at one side seemingly with no one to see them off before their mortal remains were offered to the fire-god. I had never felt life to be so worthless.

 

       Boat is gliding softly with the gentle sound of splash produced by the oar. ‘Look up there. There stands the Nepali Mandir built by some maharaja of Nepal.’ And we see a wooden structure in the midst of the cluster of houses. ‘Ek din januparchha tyahan,’ (We should go there one day.), say I to Dev and he nods. And the boat starts turning towards the right and in the midstream, then we see the boatman working to sail the boat upstream. I immensely enjoy the serenity of the river, its openness, its nakedness, dipping the hand in the cool water, taking the water in cupped hand, being caressed by the cool breeze. Green on the wavy surface, but crystalline while taken in hand, the river was quite unmindful of its being revered as holy or despised as unclean. And suddenly my eyes catch a dark lump of something unrecognizable floating on the surface, a couple of crows on it. ‘Look! What’s that?’  The boatman turns his head towards the direction my eyes curiously staring at. ‘It’s the half-burnt human body from the pyre,’ answers the boatman. I feel something crumble deep in me. As the boat sailed further up, the panoramic view of Varanasi all along the bow-shaped bank on the other side of the Ganges appears so fascinating that anyone, even with a tiny bit of sense of beauty, can be attracted to it. The boat moved further up, to the Harishchandra ghat and a little further up. The ghat reminds us of Harishchandra’s story that we read in our Third or Fourth Grade in school. From there the boat takes a curve and glides downstream. The boatman points to a building and says, ‘If you like to purchase Banarasi silk saris I can take you there where you will find original ones at much lower rate than in the market.’ We show little interest in it and the boat moves a little faster. When we were closer to the Dashashwamedh ghat from where we took the boat, the crowd of the people taking Ganga snan (holy dip in the Ganga water) had doubled. Men in knickers and women in blouse and sari, young girls in salwar-kurtha made the conglomeration of bathers a spectacle. I wondered how those women bathe with their clothes on, how they soaped their bodies. But they were there dipping in the holy water of the Ganga more to be mystically purified than washing their physical bodies clean. Faith is always immune to rationality. 

 

       When we were back to the press it was already past ten. Office-cum-composition section was on the first floor. We saw eight or ten compositors, each sitting in front of the broad wooden frame that had scores of tiny pigeonhole-like square chambers filled with steel letters. Among them three compositors were picking up letters to compose words and lines from the leaves of my manuscript. It was quite amusing to see their fingers picking up each letter just the way the fowls pecked at the grains of wheat. By the evening we were given a few pages of galley proof. I was quite excited to see the printed pages of my novel. I had no idea how to read proof copy, how to mark the errors and show the correct form of the words or sentences. Prakash taught me what and how to use signs while marking the words to be corrected, deleted or inserted. I was being swayed by a kind of tickling sensation while seeing the lines now transformed into their printed forms, the words just a day before had been lying hidden in a dark dungeon of a cover-file in their primitive forms yearning for the light of the day.

     ‘Read the proof carefully, without hurrying,’ said Prakash to me.

     In five or six days we had finished the task of reading all the proof copies. One day he took us to the block maker and there we knew all about what a printing block was. It was made with a kind of heavy material.

     The Madhav Mudranalaya, in fact, had no printing press of its own. It only worked with the tiny metal letters in reverse forms which the compositors put to the rows of line and to the shape of pages. The pages then were skillfully arranged into a frame, colloquially called farma, of eight or sixteen pages and tied all around with string to make it stay intact. Pages of the metal letters being in reverse forms as the images in mirror needed very skilled and experienced hand to correctly arrange them in a frame. The farma thus readied was sent to the printing press. Heavy metal frame put on a metal tray was usually carried off by a porter. My face would grimace seeing him balance the load on his head with a short groan. He carried such loads five or six times a day. At times, rickshaw-cart used to be hired to carry three or four frames at a time.

     The compositors hired at the Mudranalaya mostly commuted on bicycle all the way from the far-flung suburbs of the city. They could not even correctly pronounce or understand Nepali words which they gave shape with the steel letters in reverse shapes. Let alone the words or sentences in English of which their knowledge was up to the level of alphabets. It was an irony of their profession that they, day after day, arranged the lines in a frame knowing nothing what the lines meant. [Today when entire printing technology has shifted to an absolutely different plane, like to a strange planet, I often think of those poor compositors who worked at meager wage: What other kind of works could they have picked up when digital technology irreversibly rendered them obsolete? They had now become like the typewriters replaced by the desk-top computer or a laptop. ] 

     *

     During our stay at the Madhav Mudranalaya we got acquainted with some of the writers and proof readers who use to come to the Mudranalaya. One such proof reader, who looked quite docile and humble and was from Nepal, then studying at the Sampurnananda Sanskrit Vishwavidyalaya in Varanasi, happened to grow more than an acquaintance to us. At this time when I am writing this reminiscence his name is eluding my memory while his sober looks and gentle demeanour are quite vivid to my eyes. He one day wanted us to go with him to a place somewhere in the city to meet B. P. Koirala, a great name both in Nepali literature and politics, at his residence where he was expected to meet his Benaras-based loyal supporters. I, a fan of his short-stories and novels, was greatly fascinated by the very name of BP Bishweshwar Prasad Koirala, the name that sent pleasant ripples in my mind. Also I already knew something about his indefatigable political fight against the monarchical government of Nepal. As we reached his modest bungalow a little more than two dozen of his fans were already there – some were on chairs and stools, some were sitting on the grassy lawn and some stood behind them. The revered leader, lean and thin in spotless white kurta-pyjama, his bespectacled face beaming with smile, sat on a cushioned wooden chair on the broad veranda, some men sat on the floor at the right and left flank of him. Most of the people gathered there were young except a few middle aged. Devkumar and I were introduced by our friend. He, smilingly and somewhat curiously glanced at us, ‘So you are from Darjeeling! What’s the news from there?’ His voice was not that smooth due to his throat operation that was done for something malignant in his throat.

     ‘There is a movement for the constitutional recognition of Nepali language.’ I answered.

     ‘That’s good.’ He said.

      Then he spoke to his Nepalese supporters about the political scenario prevailing at that time in Nepal. Here we were face to face with that charismatic personality who, besides being a trend setter in Nepali fiction writing, sacrificed the better part of his life in the untiring struggle to bring about democratic change in Nepal. Having been released from the secluded internment for several years in his own country, he was now living in exile. He unquestionably commanded a great respect from the people in his country.

       *

        Our proof-reader friend played the role of a guide to us while visiting a couple of sites in and around the city. Among the sites visited then, Saranath, eleven kilometers from the periphery of the city, so enamoured me that in my every subsequent trip to Varanasi – more than twelve times so far -- I have never failed to be there at least for a few hours each time.

       Our visit to Nepali Mandir, meandering through the intriguing narrow alleys, is also not less memorable. Not-so-well-cared-but-neat-and-clean Nepali Mandir is structured in the style of the Pashupatinath temple of Kathmandu. Its inward-sloping wooden rafters on all four sides have the carvings depicting erotic figures just as those on the rafters of Pashupatinath temple. Westerners looked quite perplexed to see such figures on the exterior part of the earthly abode of God. We, too, were not less amusingly perplexed. But today as I visualize those libidinal depictions I think that they symbolize the wide gaping moat of sensual desires all around, without crossing which one cannot attain the spiritual blissfulness.   

       The descending concrete stairway of the Mandir led to the river Ganga.  

       So fascinated we were with the Ganga that we loved to spend each morning and each evening time strolling along or sitting on the steps of Ghats. Boating in the evening, after sunset, did give a unique and sublime pleasure. Relieved from the morning crowd of bathers and devotees, the entire ambience along the river would be calm and quiet, soothing and serene. Some sadhus with matted hairs bundled on the top of head or left streaming down, sitting cross-legged in a circle, could be seen smoking marijuana in an earthen chilim (smoking pipe), which, after drawing a lungful of smoke, they would pass on around; A flute seller, with a big jhola stuffed with several dozens of flutes of various sizes slung across his shoulder, a cheap kind of hat on his head, would play a bass flute producing a deep, gurgling melody that made the dusk more enveloping, more tangible.

       [However, in my last visit six-seven years ago, I found the serenity of the Dashashwamedh ghat in the evening described as above completely torn in shreds by the surging crowd of the people who vied for space on the rows of steps to witness the spectacle of Aarti (a prayer ceremony) in which a dozen young yogi-like Aarti performers stood in symmetrical action, in their hands huge diya-lamps the handles of which were in stylish twists and turns. Devotional songs blaring through the loudspeakers would rather arouse the devotee’s frenzy than devotional feelings and was perfectly commensurate with the teeming people. This Aarti performance, named Ganga Aarti, takes place every evening nowadays.]           

      

       *

       Another manuscript of mine -- the first ever collection of my poems written in the early and mid seventies -- had actually reached Banaras a year earlier. Mr. Sawar Agrawal of the Shyam Brothers Publication had apprised me that the printing work relating to the manuscript was still lying pending with the Bhola Yantralaya at Nadesar in want of Nepali proof reader and since I was going to Banaras he asked me to go there and see the proof myself. One day, we took a rickshaw to Nadesar, a place at the outskirt of the city. It took almost forty-five minutes to reach there. In a peaceful rural ambience stood a spacious two storied brick house, the ground floor accommodated a heavy printing machine, on the facing side of which a stack of broad sheets of paper was put in place from where the machine, while operating, picked one sheet of paper at every forward movement and when every backward movement dropped the paper-sheet on the other end of the machine the paper on one side had the impression of print neatly spaced in sixteen pages. It took only a few seconds to complete one forward-and-backward movement. On the upper floor there was the office at one end with a table and a few chairs and the bigger space was occupied by a host of compositors. Mr. Bhola, the owner of the press, attired in white loose pyjama- kurta and sleeveless jawahar coat, welcomed us with folded hands and a wide smile, led us to upstairs, offered water in tall steel glasses and then tea was brought in shorter steel glasses. He produced from somewhere a cover- file on the front cover of which was written in calligraphic style – Biblyanto Yugbhitra Cartoon Manchheharu. It was my hand, of course. With the manuscript were the pinned-up pages of galley proof.  

       And in two days when finally I finished reading proof I added a short Author’s Note that begins thus: This book was expected to come out in the previous year itself but was delayed at the press for some technical reason, and now it, along with my novelette Tyo Modsamma Pugeko Manchhe, is coming into the light of publication and they are to me like twin son and daughter.’

      

       With the final proof-reading of the novella finished, printing order given and the sample of cover design also okayed, we had no other business to stay on in Banaras. Prakash convinced us that he would send the book (1000 copies) by road / railway- transport to be delivered at Darjeeling within a fortnight. And he advised us to take reservation ticket for the North-east Express that would leave Mughalsarai at four in the afternoon and reach the NJP junction before dawn. Railway reservation ticket could be availed even an hour before departure time of the train, Prakash told us. In the morning of the day we were to leave we wanted to have the joy of boating one last time before leaving, and while sailing downstream from a particular point the boatman asked us if we would like to see the Banarasi sari. And anchoring his boat near a ghat, he led us to a river-side building. After climbing two flights of steps we were in a cloth store awash with half a dozen of tube-light. There were a couple of other customers. One of the two salesmen turned toward us and unfurled varieties of Banarasi sari, price of which ranged from Rs. 200/ to 10,000/. Forty-one years ago Rs. 200/ was also not a too small a sum. Having the pleasure of seeing several varieties, we settled with the ones around Rs. 250 to 300. Boatman must have got his commission from the salesman. In the market around Dashashwamedh Chowk and Bishwanath gali we bought some other smaller gifts. It was past noon when we hired an auto-rickshaw for Mughalsarai, a small town on the other flank of the river Ganges. The broad highway ran along the outer edge of the city and our dwarfish hunchbacked Auto, negotiating with the aggressively roaring trucks and buses, approaching from the opposite direction and those chasing from behind, it brought itself out on the long steel bridge over the mighty river. The bridge is also known as Double Decker Bridge. The upper Decker is the black-topped wide road while the lower Decker carries the railway trains running from both ends of the bridge.

     

        It was almost 2 o’clock when our Auto finally stopped at the front yard of the long station building. Soon after we got onto the smooth floor of the station, Devkumar joined the short queue of seven-eight men and a little later some more men stood behind him. Then came Devkumar’s turn to stand face-to-face with the man behind the iron-barred counter and give description for the reservation and make payment for both of us. He thrust his right hand into the back pocket of his pant to get the wallet, and next moment I saw his left hand fumbling in the other back pocket, then both hands at a time into the two side-pockets. And turning his head toward me he, a bit nervous, said, ‘I’m not getting my wallet. Give me for the time being fifty rupees.’ And that was the whole amount of money then left with me. Having thus secured the tickets for the sleeper coach, we started rummaging our bags but in vain, and he shoved his hands again into all the pockets of his pant and shirt and the hands seemed to be more dreadfully barren. We could do nothing but to accept the cruel fact that the wallet was gone, with no hope of retrieval at all. Now rendered absolutely broke, we wanted to sell some of our things: Dev tried to sell his Ray Ban sunglass while I wanted to part with my Seiko wrist watch. But alas! We could find no taker. A huge clock on the station wall struck 3:30 p.m. and we had to prepare ourselves to board the train. As the train entered the platform, there was no rush to get into the reservation compartment. We settled down on our seats. Opposite to us was a young European tourist, with a bulky book in his hand. He might have boarded the train at Delhi.

   

       Minutes after the train pulled out of the platform a man in sky blue shirt came to us to take order for dinner. Dev clumsily shook his head to left to right to left. I also answered in the same sign language when asked about the dinner. The European tourist, engrossed in his book, did not look up to answer the waiter. A little later a tea seller passed through the passage blaring in his typical vocal cord - chai.. chaai.. Usually it was tea-time for us but then we had to observe forced fasting. Comfort of the sleeper class of the train was like an irony to us. The sun was going down the distant horizon. Vast expanse of fields was rushing past. And dusk grew from grey to dark and soon the whole world was enveloped by darkness. It was as if even the cost-free pleasure of watching the outside world through the railway window was withdrawn from us. The train sped triumphantly piercing the darkness. With spirits dropped low, we spoke scantily with each other. Our usual chat that would be a blend of different subjects intertwined with laughter, regrets, excitement, curiosity, had now deserted us. Our white-skinned co-passenger unzipped his bag and took out a bunch of bananas and started eating, his eyes still on the book held by the other hand. One after another he ate five-six bananas in all. My stomach was revolting. After sometime the tourist straightened his legs on the lower berth leaning his back on the shuttered window. In a while he would be lying in a sleeping posture. I lay on the middle berth while Dev stretched himself on the other lower berth. Eyes wide awake all the while, I would now read the ceiling of the upper berth overhead or the fans on the ceiling of the train, now turning to the partisan of the compartment or to the empty space between the berths. Shutting the eyes tight could not catch the sleep. Now tossing and turning, now lying still, I do not know when I somehow fell asleep for an hour or two. Even that short period of sleep was not undisturbed by sudden loud rattling sound produced by the iron wheels grinding on the steel bridges.

 

       When the train gradually slowed down and the lamp-posts flicked past we heard someone in the adjacent compartment speak in Hindi – NJP pahunch gaye hain. I glanced at my watch – five minutes to three. It was platform no. 2 attached to the hind side of the station building with several offices from one end to the other. At that odd hour of pre-dawn we, rendered penniless, literally had nowhere to go. How to reach Darjeeling? The question sat heavy on our head. We seated ourselves on a wooden settle in front of a tea-stall that was already busy selling hot tea and biscuits. My right hand quietly pushed itself into the back pocket of my pant and in a while was out with a coin of athaana, 50 paise.

       ‘DK, do you like to have a cup of tea?’

       ‘No, I don’t. You have.’

       And I took a cup of steaming hot tea. It was, in fact, not a cup but a small glass. From the fifty paise the tea vendor returned to me the small coin of charaana, twenty-five paise. I felt every sip of hot tea going through my throat all the way down to stomach.

       Time moved at a snail’s pace. It seemed darkness would never lift. How to reach Darjeeling? Let alone Darjeeling, we had no way even to reach Siliguri.

       ‘As soon as there is morning light, we shall exit from here and look for the public vehicle for Darjeeling.’ I said to DK, ‘And let us request the driver to wait for our fare until we reach Darjeeling. We should tell him everything about the plight we have fallen in.’

       ‘Let’s try.’ Says DK, quite dispiritedly.

       As the darkness finally dissipated, we brought ourselves outside in the open space where a few Landrovers were standing. One, we noticed, was from Darjeeling. I approached the driver and told him everything about our journey. He looked at us, perhaps at our appearance, our demeanour and said, ‘Okay, you may take two back seats.’

      We felt greatly relieved.

      Some more passengers came up, almost full to the capacity, and in a quarter of an hour the driver started the Landrover that sped towards Siliguri and through Sukna moved winding along the gently ascending Hill Cart Road girdling the rising hills. Somewhere in the midway the vehicle stopped for a break in front of a roadside eatery. Driver and some passengers entered there for tea and snacks. Dev and I remained stuck to the seat. When, at long last, the vehicle entered the Darjeeling town, both of us, sticking our heads through the open space, were intently looking for any of our acquaintances, friends or relatives. As we arrived at the point of crossroads near the western edge of Chowk Bazar we asked the driver to stop and he parked in front of Bharat Hair-cutting Saloon. Before we got off the vehicle both of us saw Balaram daju, DK’s elder cousin brother walking that way.

       ‘Daju!’ DK called out, his eyes now glittering.

       Daju looked at us and smiled. ‘Arre! Arrived from Banaras!’

       ‘First of all, give us some money’, Dev spoke, ‘The driver is waiting there for our taxi fare.’

       Both of us thanked the driver profusely.

       Balaram daju was curious to know what the matter was and we told him everything about our return journey. He gave us some more money and said, grinning –‘Go to a nearby restaurant and have to your fill.’

      We, too, with our parched lips, smiled to him, from ear to ear.

      _______________________

·         November 8 – 10 / 2020.                                                     

                                     

                                                                              

 

                               

 

                                  

Wednesday, September 9, 2020

 

The Story of My Birth

[ As told by my mother ] 

-          Manprasad Subba

 

I’d already overstayed, ensconced

In my young mother’s womb

Utterly refusing to come out

For some reasons unknown.  

 

It was the time when brooks and creeks

With excessive pride had swollen

While my poor mother’s abdomen

Had then so enormously grown.

 

Paddy-fields along the riversides

Were all hopelessly washed away.

And all the green hills and valleys

Were bruised brown and grey.

 

But I continued to stay in the womb

Defying the mighty god of time.

May be the subconscious deep in me

Foresaw my life to be coated with grime.  

 

When in this remote corner of earth

The autumnal breath was first felt,

My embryo was in its eleventh month

But still unwilling to leave that state.

 

One day I chose a dreamy moment

To go out on journey of life on earth.  

The poor young couple, my parents,

Tossed with anxiety awaiting my birth.         

 

As August gave way to September

My mother in pangs lay on the floor

To bring a new life out of her own!

A divine task she knew not before.  

 

For three long days and fretful nights

She had the bouts of gripping pain.

An old midwife came to see her,

A shaman performed the sapok chomen1  

And as my sudden cry filled the hut

In chorus with the cock’s first crow,

With smiles on lips all eyes lit up, 

A drop of sweat fell from her brow

________________________       

1.       Sapok chomen -- A kind of ritual practiced in the Limbu ethnic group and performed by a shaman-priest for the well being of an expectant woman and the baby in the womb.

Monday, July 20, 2020


Bray and Barks : A Story


On the large public television screen
put up in the heart of the town
appeared a donkey, somewhat lean
but not too docile, and dull brown.  

A news-reporter with a microphone
provoked the animal standing alone,
eager and impatient to make it say  
something in the language of its bray.  

Annoyed, it directly faced the lens
and jerked its body for ten seconds
as if to shake off all its reticence
and the embarrassing diffidence.

But to everyone’s utter bewilderment
Its jerk caused cracks on the TV screen
that fell into pieces the very next moment
leaving behind only the borders of the screen.

And lo! Jumping out of the virtual world
the donkey stood now on the ground real, 
where all stood, the ground that’s tarred.
The audience were now virtually petrified
while many in horror retreated and cried.  

Standing at arm’s length from the viewers,
it swayed its head to the right and to the left.
Then looking straight ahead and a little upward  
it released a loud bray for one full minute.

Its bray, a little too harsh and audacious,
contrary to some enthusiastic expectations,
attracted the cacophony of ire from canines
of various hues and voices, sizes and spines.  
Leashed as well as unleashed and stray,
they all frantically barked and whined  
even at the faint echo of the bray.
To scare it away they all lined.

Unperturbed, the donkey walked indifferently
Past the crowd that stood gaping awfully
while the reporter with microphone in hand
still in the empty frame did gawkily stand.

He seemed imploring but no word could be heard
and the animal turning its head backward
brayed loudly as if it said, “O you super brain!  
“Why don’t you come out of the confining frame?”

On its head the southward sun shines
as it passes by the host of hostile canines.
And I, a witness to this strange spectacle,
hurriedly record the incident in these lines.
-------------------------------------------------------
 July 16 - 17,  2020.










Time will Come
(A Pandemic Song)

Time will come,
before we succumb to hopelessness
and we will be walking hand in hand
along the sidewalk of the busy streets
without mask on our faces,
going desultorily through the lanes
with our arms across each-other’s waists.

Time will come
when we will again step into a roadside eatery,
eat warm samosas or momos from one single plate,
and walking across the zebra-crossing,
we will assimilate like molecules
into the buzzing swirl of market place,
charged with more vibrancy
we will find our way through ever-swelling crowd,
get onto an over-crowded bus
or a fuming and spluttering Bikram Tempo
to reach some other part of the city.

[From a corner of our vocabulary 
the word 'Sanitizer' will have evaporated
without leaving even a faint trace of its odour.]  

Time will come
when we will find ourselves in a jam-packed stadium
watching a football match or a cricket match,
you cheering shrilly for one team
and I shouting support for the other.
As the final whistle goes or the last ball is bowled
we will have already been in high and low tide.
Or in an open space away from the stadium,
abandoning ourselves on the dusty ground like many others,
we will be enjoying the sleight of hands of a street musician.

Raising our fists high up 
in a surging and boiling protest rally
we will be shouting slogans thunderously.
  
Time will come
when we will be joining wedding parties
vigorously shaking hands and hugging each other.
Drawing aside from the assemblage,
some invitees in pairs will be whispering intimate words
inhaling each-other’s breath.

Time will come
when we will be gathering in the neighbourhood
where death has occurred,
paying the deceased our last respect,
bidding him / her a decent final farewell. 

And on the same day in the evening,
we will be in a birthday party
singing in chorus – Happy Birthday to you !
+
But for now 
let us just be virtually happy 
for our virtual meeting
that hangs in-between illusion and reality.  

And who knows
even the day we have been waiting for
may just be a virtual one?    
____________
July 12,  2020.



I Can’t Breathe…
-          Manprasad Subba

George,
the three words you laboriously uttered
before you ceased to be  
beneath the avalanche of snow-white knee,
now thundering in the sky of America and everywhere,
loudly echoing even in the southern hemisphere --
I Can’t Breathe…
And the streets in chorus are singing the dirge-
I can’t breathe… I can’t breathe…

The difference between your neck and his knee ---
your neck was black and all the time throbbing with fervor  
while his knee weighed down as hard and cold as white boulder.
Your blackness shone like a smooth black stone image from antiquity
while under the cover of his whiteness
some blackest designs were lurking.

His white skin is not as white as your teeth
that would shine bright whenever you grinned,  
nor as much white as your bones under the black skin,
nor as white as the sclera of your eyes.

O Big Floyd,
we’d seen all your soul’s brightness
when you vigorously sang rap in Houston.
You rapped in colourless voice
gushing out through the same throat
that the cop’s white boulder knee pinned down.

Today
every single word in black ink says -
if the whiteness of avalanche
falls so crushingly on the neck of time
I can’t breathe ..
And the words have come out of the confinements of the books
rallying round you, O George Floyd,
singing dirge in chorus – I can’t breathe…



Tuesday, May 12, 2020




Lockdown
-          Manprasad Subba

Hadn’t been accustomed to the word lockdown,
that sounds burdensome and makes us frown.
I am rather familiar with the word lock-up;   
have seen innocents also falsely locked up.

On some occasions I, too, nearly landed in the lock-up,
but for a leader’s favours the matters were hushed up. 
The smart guy’s allegiance to the party in power
made all in the locality astonishingly cower. 

But it’s the phrase ‘lock-out’ that is too insolent
standing akimbo in the way of the innocents.  
On seeing this, the tea-bushes turn stupefied
and all the trails across the garden go to hide.   

Only a giant Lock with cold indifference hangs
from the nose of factory gate that’s deaf to pangs.
The factory wears the look of a closed museum.
The manager’s bungalow keeps deafening mum.

Mute goes the powerful vocal cords of the siren    
and the garden with all its greenness looks barren.  
And the green-gold workers, without the siren’s whine,
are suddenly overwhelmed by the super-surplus time.

Then the poor folks are at their wit’s end
knowing nothing at all how to spend
such an overwhelming wealth of time
beneath which quietly they lie supine.    

They are haunted by the ghost of the Lock
that defies being exorcised by the endless talk.
This recurs every year when dry season is near.
Yet to them these tea-bushes are truly so dear.  

(But why should these lines play such a rhyme
while telling about their too harsh a time?
 But what if rhyme forms on its own accord
and the footfalls of rhythm want to be heard?)
   
And now this ‘Lockdown,’ so unfamiliar a word,
has come to distance individuals from the herd.
Unlike the notorious lock-up or lock-out 
this Lockdown swells with the stories of doubt.

But Lockdown is the only, only weapon left
with human beings who’re now suddenly bereft
of their craft, cleverness and super intelligence
and they’re now piteously pushed to the fence.   

----------------------------------------------------

May 02,  2020.


 
  


To My Friends Far and Near
-         Manprasad Subba

Hello Tolang didi, are you still in Wuhan?
I believe you’ve survived the most dreaded virus
as you did the trauma of deportation
from this side of the Himalaya over to the Great Wall.
(That was but when you were in your early teens.)

The virus that sneaks through the ancient Wall
and strides all the mountains and the oceans on this planet
says nothing about your innocence traumatized during the war.
But my memory of you is greater than the war and this pandemic.
*
Dear Norbert,
you must be safe in the isolation ward of your own art-studio,
depicting in somber colour the monstrosity
of Corona on the canvas of your widening forehead.
Is your present home Madrid any safer than your native Munich?
The pain of mighty Spain is heard so loud everywhere.
I wonder how those street artists are doing under lockdown.
I miss your letters that would smell the blended breath of German and Spanish.
*
Alberto,
I haven’t heard of you since the pandemic outbreak in Italy.
You recently owned a home in the outskirts of Rome.
But all I am concerned about is your well being.
I imagine you looking out of your dormer window
down on the street lined with hundreds of coffins
Well, you have the formidable hope of redemption in Pope.
But the moment you wake up, pray to yourself in isolation.
*            
Dr. Rowland, my poet friend,
you, who keep shuttling between Ireland and Australia,    
haven’t responded my e-mail I wrote last evening
and your silence gives me eerie feelings.
Are you okay? Where are you now?
In Ireland? In Australia?
Or in Istanbul where Turkish translation of your poetry book
was supposed to be launched?
But the ubiquitous virus is everywhere every time in wait
If only the mantra of poetry could ward it off!
If only the music could charm it into an eternal slumber!
*
Alex, you must have slipped into isolation of your own cosy Sonnetina.
Your Infinite City, with one hundred small cottages of Sonnetinas,
is far safer than the cities of Sidney, Melbourne, Brisbane  
When everything appears to be extremely finite
I take refuge in your beautiful Infinite City.
*
Hi Bharati Gautamjee, Govardhan bhai, Hari Adhikarijee,
I hear the loud bubbling of the great melting pot of America
Alarming is the sound from across the Atlantic and Arabian Sea
So vibrant you all were a couple of weeks ago
Now your vibrancy is quarantined in each concrete pigeon-hole
O Mr. President!
Befuddle the Virus in the labyrinth of your words
so that it die of fatigue.
O my Dears! Stay safe, stay safe, stay safe.
*
And you, Remy and Bhushan,
just a few hours’ drive from my isolation centre,
but the distance all the while distancing from itself,
distancing endlessly…  
And we were denied even our humble wish
To pay our last respect to Purnima ma’am who expired last week.
*
And Sudesh, Diksha and many others like you
now laid off in some corners of Bengalore, Mumbai, Delhi…
hanging Trishanku in the space,
paper kites stuck on the microwave towers,
I’m sorely worried about you all
But we are in war
and in war and love everything is fair…
Take care of yourselves is all I can say at the moment.  
_______________________________________

-         April the 14th, 2020.

[Infinite City is the collection of 100 sonnetinas by Alex Skovron,  a Melbourne based Australian poet.
Sonnetina is 10-line experimental form of sonnet propounded by Skovron.]

Notes on the names or the characters used in the poem “To My Friends Far and Near”:

1.        Tolaang : The name of a Chinese girl, then living at Pulbazar, Darjeeling, who along with her parents, was deported to China in the wake of the Indo-China war in 1962.
2.        Norbert : Full name Norbert Ostendorf, a German painter, later migrated to Spain making Madrid his permanent home, is a friend of mine. We used to correspond to each other for many years, but later working as a German tutor to the Spanish students, he gradually lost his ability to express in English, and the correspondence between us stopped altogether.
3.        Alberto : An imaginary name for an Italian character.
4.        Dr. Rowland : Full name Dr. Robyn Rowland, a poet who divides her time between Ireland and Australia, a friend of mine since 2010 when we met in the World Poetry Festival, Calcutta.
5.        Alex : Full name Alex Skovron, a well-known Australian poet, a friend of mine since 2010. His book Infinite City, mentioned twice in the poem, is a collection of his 100 sonnetinas. Sonnetina is a 10-line shortened form of sonnet, an experiment by Alex.
6.        Bharati Gautam, Goberdhan (Puja), Hari Adhikari are well known literary persons from Nepal, now based in America.
7.        Mr. President is obviously the present President of the USA.
8.        Remy and Bhushan do represent some of my young close friends in the plains down south of the Darjeeling Hills. .
9.        Purnima Ma’am : Mrs. Purnima Pradhan, wife of Dr. Kumar Pradhan, a noted historian and critic. She passed away a week after the lockdown was enforced nationwide to contain the deadly virus .
       10.  Sudesh, Diksha are imaginary names representing those migrant workers from the Darjeeling Hills